With Japan anticipating a record 35 million foreign visitors this year, Kamikochi stands out as a serene retreat from the nation's busier tourist hotspots.

Nestled in the Japanese Alps at an elevation of 1,500m, Kamikochi offers a seasonal escape featuring crisp mountain air, riverside trails, and playful Japanese snow monkeys.

Let's go to Kamikochi by public transportation.

Video by Come to Matsumoto

This car-free town is devoid of private residences, chain stores, or fast-food outlets like McDonald's or Starbucks. Instead, it provides a haven from Japan’s summer heat and dazzles with autumn foliage peaking in October. Teenage sons, Leo and James, were less thrilled by the communal shower arrangement at our hotel.

Their spirits lifted, however, when revealed our simple itinerary for the three-day, two-night stay: hiking, eating, and relaxing. "No museums, no temples?" James asked excitedly. By the time we reached Kamikochi, about halfway through a month-long journey around Honshu, sons had grown weary of cultural sites. Kamikochi, with its few hotels, restaurants, and shops along the Azusa River, promised a refreshing change.

A Longstanding Love for Pristine Nature

The allure of unspoiled nature is nothing new. In his 1896 book, Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps, Reverend Walter Weston lamented the superficial approach of some foreign tourists who rushed through Japan only to pose as authorities on its culture. Weston popularized the term "Japanese Alps," spotlighting Kamikochi as a prime destination for nature enthusiasts.

In 1927, Kamikochi gained further fame with Ryunosuke Akutagawa's novel Kappa, and in 1934, the area became part of Chūbu-Sangaku National Park, home to 10 of Japan’s 21 peaks over 3,000m. Often compared to California's Yosemite National Park, Kamikochi earned the title of Japan’s "most beautiful valley."

Given the increasing focus on overtourism in Japan, hoped Kamikochi would offer a respite from bustling cities like Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo, which we had already explored earlier in the trip.

Kamikochi Through the Seasons

Before our arrival, we spoke to Michiko Kitaguchi, a volunteer guide in Kanazawa, about Kamikochi. "In Chinese, Kamikochi means ‘a place where the divine descends,’” she explained. A passionate visitor herself, she described autumn in Kamikochi as magical, with vivid foliage along the Hodaka mountains and golden Japanese larch forests by the river.

Kamikochi has prioritized conservation since banning private vehicles and motorcycles in 1975. Earlier measures included prohibiting logging in 1875, restricting the removal of alpine plants in 1909, and designating the area as a "protection forest" in 1916. Today, the number of hotels and inns is capped at 17, and strict rules maintain the area’s ecological integrity.

Accessible, Yet Remote

Almost everyone arrives in Kamikochi by bus, as private cars are required to park 30 minutes away. We opted for a hybrid bus route from Takayama, our previous stop, which also connects to Matsumoto, home to a stunning 16th-century castle.

Upon arriving at the bus terminal, appreciated the convenience of our nearby hotel, the Nishi-itoya Mountain Lodge. Other accommodations, like the historic Tokusawa Inn, require a one- to two-hour hike from the terminal with luggage. Crossing the iconic Kappa Bridge, named after Akutagawa’s novel, we initially encountered a swarm of selfie stick-wielding tourists. However, most day-trippers leave by late afternoon, restoring the area’s tranquility.

Hiking Amidst Natural Wonders

We planned three hikes, each suited to our laid-back pace, avoiding the strenuous ascents of peaks like Mt Jonen or Mt Oku-Hotakadake. On our first hike to Myojin Pond, we encountered troops of mischievous snow monkeys and heard Japanese bush warblers singing "hoo-ke-kyo." The crisp air and scenic trails felt like a world away from bustling Takayama.

Kamikochi attracted 1.3 million visitors in 2023, mostly Japanese. By comparison, over 100 million people visit Mt Fuji annually, the only other Japanese site designated as both a Special Place of Scenic Beauty and a Special Natural Monument. Despite initial concerns about crowds, Kamikochi proved delightfully serene, especially in the evenings.

A Transient but Enchanting Life

Chatting with a hotel server, learned that Kamikochi operates only from late April to mid-November due to harsh winters. Seasonal workers migrate elsewhere during the offseason. Showing photos from a recent hike to Taisho Pond, she expressed her love for the area. The pond, created by the 1915 eruption of Mt Yakedake, is framed by dramatic, snow-dusted peaks, epitomizing Kamikochi’s raw beauty.

Our final hike to Taisho Pond was a fitting conclusion, offering views of jagged mountains reminiscent of a fantasy world. Akutagawa’s Kappa described the valley as home to mythical water spirits, but our experience, though lacking such creatures, was no less magical. Sons objected to the nudity in the onsen, but we all appreciated the region's conservation efforts, ensuring Kamikochi remains a haven of natural splendor.

In a world dominated by cars and noise, Kamikochi offers a rare opportunity to connect with nature, surrounded by birdsong, snow monkeys, and breathtaking scenery rather than the trappings of modernity.