The BR-319 is renowned as one of South America's most challenging routes, offering those who traverse it an unfiltered view of the Amazon few get to experience.
The origins of the "Road of Ghosts" moniker remain unclear. Perhaps it stems from the desolate stretches that run through the Amazon rainforest, devoid of settlements or signs of life.
Or maybe the name refers to the abandoned wrecks of freight trucks along its length. Despite its poor condition making it impassable during the rainy season, drivers often take their chances in the drier months, navigating massive potholes and dusty ruts. The risks don’t always pay off, but for some, the thrill is worth the gamble.
The BR-319 connects Manaus, a city of more than two million people, to the rest of Brazil, ending in Porto Velho, the capital of Rondônia. Built in the 1970s to exploit the Amazon's resources, the highway attracted migrants seeking cheap agricultural land and opportunities. However, without proper maintenance, much of the road fell into disrepair, leaving communities along its route isolated and forgotten.
Brazil's President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva has pledged to restore the BR-319. Supporters argue this will economically integrate the states of Amazonas and Rondônia, but critics fear it could open the Amazon to unprecedented deforestation and environmental harm.
For adventurers, the BR-319 holds a different allure. Known for its thrilling challenges, the highway attracts overlanding enthusiasts keen to test their skills in the Amazon's rugged environment. The dry season sees Land Cruisers and adventure motorcycles joining freight trucks on the road. Many travelers detour from the Pan-American Highway, ending their journey in Manaus, a city famed as a gateway to jungle adventures and Amazon River expeditions.
Few know the BR-319 better than Flávio Bressan, whose adventure company leads motorcycle tours deep into the Amazon. Bressan helps riders navigate the challenging terrain while sharing stories about the region’s history and diversity. These tours have also contributed to mapping roads and landmarks to guide future travelers.
The journey north from Porto Velho begins on smooth, partially repaired tarmac. However, after 300km, the road deteriorates at Realidade, a frontier town aptly named "reality." Here, dirt and mud replace asphalt. Residents like Léia, who owns a roadside café, had hoped that past government promises to rebuild the road would bring prosperity. Instead, they continue to struggle with limited traffic and seasonal challenges, such as flooding and supply shortages.
Further north, the environmental impact of human activity becomes evident. Fires used to clear pasturelands have turned the rainforest into a tinderbox, with smoke lingering over the region
Farmers like Rosaline witness their land burn despite avoiding fire themselves.
Environmentalists warn that paving the BR-319 could lead to widespread deforestation, illegal logging, and mining. Scientists describe the "fish-bone effect," where spur roads branch off the main highway, escalating environmental damage. Indigenous communities, such as the Tenharim-Marmelos, face threats from land-grabbers and worry about the highway’s impact on their protected lands.
The central portion of the BR-319, a grueling 400km stretch of ruts and sand, remains the most challenging. Amid the dense jungle, travelers encounter few signs of civilization but experience the raw beauty of the Amazon. At a ferry crossing, a father and son heading to Manaus for a fishing trip embody the spirit of adventure that the highway offers.
As the journey nears Manaus, the sudden return of smooth tarmac is a welcome relief. The prospect of a fully paved BR-319 offers hope to local communities but raises concerns about the ecological cost. Despite its controversies, the BR-319 promises to remain a thrilling and unforgettable journey through the heart of the Amazon.
